16 whole chicken wings (about 3 1/2 pounds)
1/2 cup Tabasco or your favorite hot sauce
1/2 cup fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup vegetable oil
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons kosher or coarse sea salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
For mop sauce:
1/2 cup (1 stick) salted butter
1/2 cup Tabasco sauce
Maytag Blue Cheese Sauce (see recipe)
4 ribs celery, rinsed and cut into thirds lengthwise, then cut crosswise into roughly 3-inch sticks
To prepare wings: Rinse chicken wings under cold running water; blot dry with paper towels. Cut the tips off the wings and discard them (or leave the tips on if you don't mind munching a morsel that's mostly skin and bones.) Cut each wing into 2 pieces through the joint.
Whisk together hot sauce, lemon juice, oil, Worcestershire sauce, garlic, salt and pepper in a large nonreactive mixing bowl. Stir in the wing pieces; let marinate in the refrigerator, covered for 4 to 6 hours or as long as overnight, turning the wings several times so that they marinate evenly.
To prepare mop sauce: Just before setting up the grill, melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat; stir in the hot sauce.
To cook wings: Soak 1 1/2 cups wood chips or chunks (preferably hickory or oak), for 1 hour in water to cover; drain.
Set up the grill for indirect grilling, and preheat to medium. If using a gas grill, place all the wood chips or chunks in the smoker box or in a smoker pouch and run the grill on high until you see smoke, then reduce the heat to medium. If using a charcoal grill, place a large drip pan in the center beneath the grate, heat the grill to medium, then toss all the wood chips or chunks on the coals.
Drain the marinade off the wings and discard the marinade. Brush and oil the grill grate. Place the wings in the center of the hot grate, over the drip pan and away from the heat, and cover the grill. Cook the wings until the skin is crisp and golden brown and the meat is cooked through, 30 to 40 minutes. During the last 10 minutes, start basting the wings with some of the mop sauce.
Transfer the grilled wings to a shallow bowl or platter; pour the remaining mop sauce over them. Serve with Blue Cheese Sauce, celery for dipping and, of course, plenty of paper napkins and cold beer.